
If you’re obsessed with your brows and how to make them look fuller, then you’ve probably come across microblades at least once in the past few years. The semi-permanent treatment is quickly becoming a super trendy way to fill in brows without having to pick up a pencil every morning, as it uses a blade to deposit pigment into the skin.
Meet the experts: Nika Randall, brow and lipstick artist and operations manager at Hairy Little Things in California, Jessica Rowson , certified microblade and brow artist at Hairy Little Things in California, Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, board-certified cosmetic dermatologist specializing in skin care and aesthetic treatments, Piret Aava, brow expert, makeup artist, certified esthetician and beauty tattoo specialist
Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? If you’re interested in getting microblades on your eyebrows, just know that there’s a lot to know about the treatment. So of course, WH seeks answers from several experts.
Learn more ahead of time about what microblades are, who should get them done on their eyebrows, how much they cost and how long they can be used.
What is Microblading?
Microblading is a semi-permanent cosmetic treatment that creates a natural-looking brow effect by depositing pigment into the eyebrows using small blades formed by small needles to make the eyebrows look thicker and fuller. They are added individually through “hair-like” strokes, says Nika Randall, senior brow and lipstick artist and operations manager at Hairy Little Things in California.
“Our goal is to create delicate short strokes that resemble real hair,” adds Jessica Rowson, a certified microblade and brow artist. Incidentally, it’s completely different from an eyebrow tattoo.
“The main differences between microblades and eyebrow tattoos are the results, technique, placement and longevity of the pigment ink composition,” says Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist who specializes in skin care and aesthetic treatments. For microblades, a blade is used, and while both techniques deposit color into the dermis or second layer of skin, the pigment is applied at a shallower skin depth between 0.08 and 0.15 mm, so it can fade faster than tat.
For eyebrow tattoos (also known as gradient or powder eyebrows), a rotating machine with a needling device is used to deposit the ink as dots or pixels deep into the skin to a depth of at least 1 mm or more, explain Drs. Rowson and Shirazi. “Eyebrow tattoos are more of a filled, solid look, while the microblades create negative space between strokes for a more natural look,” Randall said.
In addition, the pigments used in the microblades will remain in their original color (and dissolve within a year or two), while the brow tattoo ink will fade to a blue or green color.
Who should trim their eyebrows?
If you have patchy, sparse or uneven eyebrows and lead a busy life where you don’t feel like you have much time for your beauty routine (or if you are allergic to specific cosmetics), consider a microblade. It’s perfect for those who want to invest in any type of low-maintenance brow procedure.
“Microblades are for people who are tired of getting up and spending too much time filling in their brows,” says Randall. “But if you want to put on more makeup for a glamorous day, you can always touch up so you’ll have a shape that’s easy to mimic.”
The best results come from those with small pores and normal skin types. “Oil in the skin causes microblade strokes to widen and blur, so the less oily a client’s skin is, the better the results will be,” Rowson says.
Keep in mind that everyone’s skin is different – and everyone’s eyebrows look different, so try to keep expectations realistic, says Pire Ava, an eyebrow specialist, makeup artist, certified esthetician and cosmetic tattoo expert. “Some skin doesn’t want to retain pigment at all, but we don’t know unless we try,” she says. “Over time, the strokes soften and fade, and they don’t stay clear and defined, but it’s still much better than [a] pencil.”
However, microblading probably isn’t the right option for anyone who:
- Is pregnant or nursing
- Is undergoing chemotherapy
- Has a pacemaker or major heart problems
- Has had a recent organ transplant
- Has any viral infection and/or disease
- Has any kind of skin condition near the brows—”Eczema, dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis or any one of these skin conditions may compromise the surface and texture of the skin,” so the results might not turn out too great, Rowson says.
- Is allergic to the metal, pigments, or color used
- Is prone to keloids
- Uses Accutane
- Takes blood-thinning medications or antibiotics
- Has large pores and extremely oily skin
- Is under the age of 18
What are the advantages and disadvantages of microblades?
One of the main benefits of microblades is that they can shorten your morning beauty routine and eliminate the challenge of sparse, uneven or patchy eyebrows. They can also groom your face 24/7 and are more symmetrical, but they are also semi-permanent compared to brow tattoos or transplants. “Getting microblades can really be a life-changing moment,” Rowson adds.
But like anything, microblades have drawbacks. For starters, it can be expensive and painful for some people, and there is a risk of infection or potential reaction to the pigments used. dr. Shirazi says it’s also possible that you may not like the placement of the strokes. aava adds, “one downside is that you can be stuck with the shape you choose for up to three years.”
But there is also some downtime after the procedure, with two different appointments required for the entire process, as most clients need 6-8 weeks of retouching, and an aesthetician will help fill in any spots and make the brows darker and thicker if needed. “This will help ensure the longevity of their new brows (depending on skin type) they won’t need to return for retouching for at least a year,” Rowson says.
She also says her clients receive a 10-day aftercare program to guide them through the different stages of recovery. “The day after their appointment, they may see the brow area get very dark, then it softens and flakes off (slightly like dandruff or patches in clumps),” and then the color looks like it’s fading before recovery,” she notes. Overall, she tells patients to wait a full month for full recovery, but this is a different process for everyone because everyone’s skin type is different.
But it’s also not a “risk-free procedure,” she adds, suggesting that you do your own research and read the artists’ reviews and see their post-healing work before booking.
How long do microblades last?
After the initial treatment and touch-up appointment, microblades last a range of one to three years before fading completely. “The longevity of the results depends on skin type, lifestyle and the products you use, as well as how quickly your skin metabolizes pigment,” says Aava. Rowson and Randall encourage clients to come in once a year for annual touch-ups for fading.
How painful are microblades?
Although pain is subjective, microblading is a “very gentle” procedure, Rowson says, but clients can choose numbing creams before and during treatment. injectable anesthetics are also an option, Dr. Shirazi says.
“I would describe the sensation as a mild ‘cat scratch,'” Rowson says, and Randall adds that her clients typically rate the sensation no more than four out of 10 on the pain scale. Your eyebrows may feel slightly sunburned after the procedure, but the sensation will subside within 24 hours.
Caffeine and alcohol can affect your sensitivity, so please remember to avoid these drinks 24 hours prior to your appointment – pre-care is important!
How much do microblades cost?
The cost will depend on the location where you receive your treatment and the experience of the artist. However, the typical range is $500 to $1000 (although it can be as high as $1200) and the cost of a touch-up is less than the initial treatment.
What should I expect from my eyebrow appointment?
First, if you have any skin allergies or sensitivities, have a test spot done before completing the entire procedure and then wait a week to see if you have a reaction to the pigment. if you are prone to herpes labialis, talk to your doctor about starting preventive treatments to avoid potential outbreaks, says Dr. Shirazi.
On the day of your appointment, your aesthetician should first discuss your brow goals, map out the shape you want, and address any concerns you may have before starting treatment and your brow photos may be taken away.
“The contour always looks stronger than the finished product,” Randall says. “I tell my clients to think of their outline as a coloring book, and I draw micro-edge strokes within the lines.” Afterward, the area will be cleaned with antiseptic and alcohol, and an anesthetic cream will be applied to numb the area for about 20 to 25 minutes. During this time, you will sign a consent form regarding your medical history, medications, and consent to the procedure.
According to Dr. Shirazi, the procedure involves the artist dipping “a micro-blade tool into ink, placing tiny incisions in the skin in all directions, using saline to wipe away excess pigment,” which takes about 30 to 45 minutes, and applying gel lidocaine systemically to keep the area numb. Then, a healing cream will be applied.
Once completed, your aesthetician will read the post-care instructions carefully and make sure to address any issues you may have. Some mild to moderate redness and possibly a slight sunburn sensation will follow, which will disappear within half an hour, depending on your skin type and sensitivity. Redness, pressure, swelling and itching may occur after treatment, and peeling and tightness may begin to appear after two to three days, but all symptoms may last up to a week. “Changes in color, clarity and texture change daily,” adds Dr. Shirazi. They may look darker for up to a week.
After an appointment, your skin takes an average of 28 to 42 days to heal, she says, but aftercare lasts only about 10 days. However, the first 10 days of healing are the most important, after which you can return to your normal lifestyle.
Avoid strenuous exercise and cleaning your face for 48 hours, and when you do cleanse, wash with water only, avoiding the treated area, which should remain dry for a week, Aava says.
What to avoid before your microblading appointment:
- 60 days before appointment: avoid getting a chemical peel
- 14 days before: avoid getting a Botox treatment (it can affect your brow position) and taking ibuprofen, naproxen, vitamin E, fish oil (omega 3), or blood thinners (some of these can make the ink harder to implant, or make you more sensitive to pain)
- 7 days before: avoid tanning or getting sunburnt, using retinols or other an anti-aging creams, applying serums containing acids (AHA/BHA) on the treatment area, and plucking or waxing your eyebrows
- 72-24 hours before: avoid drinking alcohol
- 48 hours before: avoid taking aspirin, niacin, or CoQ10s
- 24 hours before: avoid drinking caffeine
What to avoid after your microblading appointment:
- 7-14 days after: don’t follow your normal skincare routine, which might include using retinols, makeup, toners, or exfoliants
- 14 days after: avoid swimming in all forms of water and the sauna
“Microblading is not one size fits all,” Rowson says. “Clients should be aware of this if trying to compare themselves to others. Everyone is beautiful and unique in their own individual way.”