
Mascara and false mascara can only give you that bright Bambi or winged cat-eye look. If you want thicker, longer, darker, flowing lashes, eyelash growers can get you there, and with proper care can even last about a month, which means no need for sticky mascara – then a quick scrub after a few hours – -day after day.
Meet our Experts: Clementina Richardson, Founder of Envious Lashes, Janet Weatherspoon, Lash Master and Owner/CEO of DeLush Salon in Los Angeles, CA, Linda Seferoviq, Lash Specialist and Artist at Pierre Michel Salon in New York City
What are eyelash extensions?
“Eyelash extensions are synthetic fibers applied to natural lashes,” says celebrity lash expert Clementina Richardson, founder of Envious Lashes in Miami and New York City. “This produces thickness, length and curl.”
In many cases, lengthening mascara can also darken your lash line, as many styles are designed to mimic the look of wearing mascara or false mascara – with just a slight added dramatic effect. Often, the lash artist or technician will use a semi-permanent glue to attach extensions to existing lashes, placing one extension on each natural lash (although volumetric “fan” extensions can increase this ratio to multiple lashes per natural lash).
For the extensions themselves, you’ll find a variety of shapes and materials offered by different studios and salons. According to Janet Weatherspoon, lash master and owner and CEO of DeLush Salon in Los Angeles, lashes can be made from the following materials: synthetic, silk, mink and synthetic mink (which mimics real mink). Your lash goals, personal preferences and budget should guide your decision to choose one material over another, and you should specify your choice prior to your appointment to ensure you get what you want.
For some guidance here, Richardson says silk is the darkest choice, followed by regular synthetics (both create a bolder look), while mink and synthetic mink have a softer black shade and a more natural look. Two other things to keep in mind here: vegans will want to avoid mink products, and real mink is also usually the most expensive material for extensions.
Once you’ve determined the extension material that works best for you, shape and length will be your next consideration, and it’s never a one-size-fits-all solution. That’s because your natural lash and eye shape and the end result you want come into play here, whether it’s more natural or super dramatic and gorgeous.
“The lash shape to choose depends on the client’s vision and, of course, the talented lash artist who can create it,” says Richardson. “Most clients ask for a cat eye [a winged, angular eyeliner-style look], but this style for droopy eyes can make them look more droopy.” Richardson says the most popular curls are C and D curls, named after the letters they look like, but other curls exist as well. Describe what you want to your artist – bring reference pictures if you can – but take advice from a technician on how to best achieve the look you want based on your unique facial structure.
At this point you may also be talking about the number of lashes, which directly affects the fullness of your set. “The fuller it looks, the more lashes you use,” says Linda Seferoviq, an eyelash specialist at Pierre Michel Salon in New York City. Most people have about 90 to 150-plus lashes per eye, according to Weatherspoon. “To get a natural look, you’ll want to stay in that range,” Weatherspoon says. “To create a more glamorous look, volume would be ideal because each volume fan ranges from four to six lashes and uses one fan for each natural lash.”
Again, depending on your lash inspo, Richardson says you should expect to get a custom combination of different shapes. Individual lashes can also be mixed with fans.
What are the pros and cons of wearing mascara?
For what it’s worth, a set of lash extensions may seem costly to maintain, or at least involved. Of course, it’s easy to come to that conclusion based on the various materials, shapes and lash lengths available from suppliers, and you haven’t even heard how long it takes or costs to apply. That said, once your extensions are complete, they can improve the look of your eyes and save time in your daily beauty routine, especially if you’re a two coat waterproof mascara kind of person.
Essentially, with lash extensions, you can achieve a bright, awake and relatively sophisticated look without having to apply or remove any stubborn lash makeup. “Wearing mascara allows you to apply makeup more easily,” says Richardson. “When applied by a skilled, licensed artist, it lifts and opens your eyes, giving you a youthful, sexy look.”
Weatherspoon agrees on both points. “Any busy person, mom, professional or student who needs to be ready to go can benefit from extensions,” she says. “They’re also ideal for special events or vacations. No mascara mishaps!”
As with any professional beauty service, lash extensions have their drawbacks. “The downside is that they require a lot of maintenance, can be expensive, and require regular touch-up appointments,” says Seferoviq, referring specifically to the bi-weekly (or every three weeks) you may need to get your lashes looking their best. You’ll also want to make sure you leave your lashes in the hands of a trusted, experienced technician or aesthetician. Ask friends for recommendations, read online reviews, and trust your instincts if you feel like something is off at your appointment or if the pricing is too good to be true. Otherwise, you may risk discomfort and infection when dealing with non-professionals, Seferoviq says. Proper post-appointment care can also help minimize any problems, but more on that later.
You may be wondering what effect, if any, extensions will have on your natural lashes. “The good news is that if used properly, extensions will not damage your natural lashes,” says Seferoviq. “Natural lashes can typically shed between one and five lashes per day, so extensions will fall out with the natural growth cycle of the hair.”
What should I expect during my lash appointment?
If you are getting your lashes done for the first time or trying a new studio or technique/artist, you should expect to spend some time upon arrival for a thorough consultation. You want to make sure the professional understands the look, results and lifestyle you want so you can choose the best lash material, shape and volume for your unique bone structure and eye shape, as described earlier.
Once you’ve made your choice and understand the studio’s pricing structure, you’ll settle in for your appointment, which is not meant to be intimidating – it won’t be quick, but it should be painless.
“The process itself should be very relaxed and comfortable,” Weatherspoon says. “Artists make it a priority to have a comfortable bed, music and blankets because you’ll be lying down [with your eyes closed] the whole time. Always wear comfortable clothes if possible. You can also bring headphones to listen to your music selection, podcasts or audiobooks.”
Weatherspoon says your first appointment will last anywhere from an hour to 45 minutes to two hours, depending on the style of your extensions and the speed of your mascara artist. Allocate more time than estimated in your schedule, though, because this is not a rushed service, Richardson says, and in some cases the process can take up to three hours. (Refills are faster because you don’t have to reapply the entire set).
As far as prep goes, Weatherspoon recommends bringing clean lashes and avoiding a low bun or ponytail as a hairstyle, which may be uncomfortable when lying on your back. If you have any residue on your lashes, your technician may clean and dry them, which may add an extra step and a little more time to your appointment, but is necessary for proper adhesion.
Regarding the application itself, Richardson says to expect your bottom cap and lashes to be covered with a gentle gel pad, which prevents the top cap from sticking to the bottom as the technician or artist works to apply the extensions (note: some salons use tape for this, as well as both methods can protect your eyes from the glare the technician is in for precise work). Next, “the natural lashes are prepared to open the follicle,” says Richardson.
“Two tweezers are used – one to isolate [the natural lashes] and the other to pick up the extensions. Once a natural lash is separated from the rest of the lashes, the technician picks up an extension with another pair of tweezers and dips its base into a medical-grade adhesive. The extension is now placed on an isolated chain.” The process is repeated until the bifocals are complete.
How much do eyelash extensions cost?
According to Richardson, the price range for eyelash extensions is wide because expertise and placement affect the total cost, as does the style and fullness of the extensions you choose. She says to expect to pay around $150 to $400 and up. weatherspoon says bi-weekly lash fillers can cost you $90 to $145.
How to care for lash extensions
To maximize the life of your lashes, you’ll need to follow a few key steps after your appointment (your lash technique may follow these guidelines as well, but they’re worth repeating here).
“For the first 24 hours, you need to avoid getting them wet,” says Richardson, which usually means avoiding the gym and any other activities where your eyes will come in contact with water during this time. Then, it’s all about watching your new eye bangs. “Try sleeping on your side and using a silk pillowcase,” Richardson adds. “Be gentle with them and make sure you clean your eyes with an oil-free makeup remover and gently brush your lashes with a spoolie brush.”
You also need to avoid using mascara and avoid using any oil-based products near the lashes, Woodhouse said. “Don’t grab them or sleep on your face so they don’t get hooked,” she says. Richardson echoes this advice: “You shouldn’t rub your eyes or put mascara on them when wearing a wig. This can lead to premature breakage and can damage your natural lashes.”
While you’ll want to avoid using oil-based cosmetics and cleansers around your eyes, you can pamper your lashes with products like lash shampoo and an intensive serum formulated for lash growth. In fact, Richardson has developed its own product line, which includes Envious Lashes Lash Protective Coating Sealer, which creates a seal between your lash extensions and natural lashes to prevent oil, debris and moisture from reducing extension adhesion, and Envious Lashes Luxuriating Lash Conditioning Serum, a coating that you apply to the base of your lashes to keep lashes and moisture in your extensions. The stronger your natural lash roots are, the longer your extensions will last and the better they will look.
How long do eyelash extensions last?
“Eyelash extensions last about a month, but if you want them to stay intact and fresh, they need to be filled every two to three weeks,” Seferoviq says. “If you want them removed, it’s best to have them removed by a professional, or you wait until they all fall off naturally.” Never pull out extensions on your own; this can damage your natural lashes.